Jo & I started our day with a hike through the legendary Black Forest a few miles outside of Baden Baden. A thick mist hovering over the trail added to the spooky feel, drumming up visions of witches and wolves – the stuff of Grimm’s tales. We walked along a soggy trail, skirting past orange slugs, dense moss, velvety lichens, and vines growing skyward like ancient trees.
A mile or so into the hike, a huge castle rose out of the mist. Called Hohenbaden (Old Castle Altes Schloss), the fortress was built along a crest in the 12th century. An addition was added in the 14th century, but the castle fell into ruin after a fire in the 16th century.
In one section of the ruins, we discovered a surprise – a huge wind harp installed in a window. Wind harps transform gusts of wind into sounds. The stronger the wind, the higher and more resonant the sound. According to a sign posted nearby, the Baden Baden wind harp – with 120 strings and 13 ft. tall – is currently the biggest wind harp in Europe.
Jo keeps a journal where she faithfully charts each day of our travels. Her entry aptly describes our experience:
“We saw rooms for sleeping, an area that looks like a jail, climbed 203 steps to get to the top, and while thinking the top was just around the corner kept going and going. The view was quite remarkable. It’s hard to believe that something like this exists, standing the test of time over all these years…so impressive, it’s really hard to find words.”
If it was with my dying breath, I would caution anyone against attempting the feat…. I would sooner walk up to the mouth of a cannon, knowing it was going to blow me to pieces than make another trip over the Fall.
Annie Edson Taylor
Annie Edson Taylor’s wild ride began on the US side of Niagara Falls just after 4 pm on October 24th, 1901. The 63-year-old school teacher climbed into a retrofitted pickle barrel. She ordered two assistants to seal it. Using a bicycle pump, the air pressure was compressed to 30 p.s.i. The barrel was rowed by boat to the middle of the river and released. It bobbed for a few moments, then caught by the fast-flowing current raced towards Horseshoe Falls.
For thousands of spectators on shore, the barrel looked ordinary enough – five feet tall, a little over 3 feet wide, made of white oak slats secured with iron rings. Inside, however, things were less ordinary. Taylor had equipped the barrel with a few features – cushions, a leather harness to keep her strapped to the sides, and a 200-pound anvil – ballast to keep the barrel upright as it charged towards the falls.
In Search of Elusive Fortune
Annie Edson Taylor was on the brink of a financial meltdown – a poor teacher facing retirement on meager savings. When she read a magazine article describing other daredevil attempts, the proverbial light bulb went on. A plunge over the falls – the first person to do so – would be just the thing to bring fame and fortune.
Two days before the launch, Taylor tested the barrel. She sealed her cat inside, then shot the animal over the falls. The cat survived with just a few scratches, and minutes after being pulled from the barrel posed with Taylor in a publicity photo.
Caught in the surging river, the barrel swept towards the falls, gaining speed and momentum. It shot over the precipice, disappearing momentarily in the mist before bobbing into view again. It drifted downstream, then came to rest against a rock, intact and largely unscathed.
Taylor’s crew retrieved the barrel and pried it open. The teacher emerged, in shock, slightly bruised, and but for a small cut to her head, largely uninjured.
Taylor’s wild ride lasted only 20 minutes, just long enough to secure her place in the record books. Newspapers around the nation featured her story:
The New York Times, October 25, 1901
WOMAN GOES OVER NIAGARA IN A BARREL
She Is Alive, but Suffering Greatly from Shock
Plunges from the Horseshoe Cataract —
— Thousands View the Attempt —
“Don’t Try It,” She Advises Others
Taylor’s dream of ongoing fame and fortune never quite materialized. Interest in her story waned quickly. She died in 1921, age 82, penniless and destitute. The Oakwood Cemetery Association in Niagara Falls, New York donated a grave to honor her place in Niagara Falls history.
While it is currently against the law to attempt a stunt at the Falls, over the years many objects – living and artificial – have taken the plunge, some successfully, but many more not. From people on rubber rafts and in steel barrels to tightrope walkers and bears in schooners, the Falls has been a magnet for thrill seekers. For a full list, check Wikipedia’s page List of Objects That Have Gone Over Niagara Falls.
Banff, Alberta is beautiful any time of year, but against a backdrop of fall colours, the postcard scenery pops. It’s impossible not to fall under its spell. The crisp snow on mountain peaks, the splashes of leafy reds and yellows, the crystalline streams cascading down rocky inclines – they’re all part of Banff’s autumn charm.
On our hike to Stewart Canyon, we skirted around peaceful Lake Minnewanka.
Another view of Lake Minnewanka.
View through the windows of the Banff Springs Hotel (Fairmont). I've never stayed here, but like many tourists, I visit and gawk at the views every time I am in Banff. Stunning!
Inukshuks grace the shoreline of Lake Minnewanka
Bursts of fall colours everywhere
My favourite spot along the Bow Valley Trail. Stands of trees give a mystical feel to an already beautiful hike.
Across from the Banff Springs Hotel at the point where the Bow Valley Trail ends
While in Seattle recently, I visited Amazon’s flagship, first-ever, and currently only brick-and-mortar bookstore. I was curious why Amazon – the king of online book sales – had changed its marketing strategy. Why invest in a traditional bookstore now after so many years of clobbering the competition by offering a broad selection at discount prices? What made this bookstore different from any other? And why build it in Seattle?
At first glance, Amazon’s sparkling new bookstore looks much like any other. The perimeter of the store is rimmed with tall windows, flooding the interior with natural light. Tall bookcases line the floor, mostly fiction on one side of the store, non-fiction on the other. There’s a children’s section at the rear with cozy seats for young shoppers.
But browse further and you’ll notice a few differences.
Book covers face outward. You won’t find any books filed with just spines showing. According toa sales manager I questioned, it was to “encourage the discovery process”.
New products are front and center, and you are encouraged to give them a try.
For the most part, only books that receive a 4 to 5 star rating on Amazon.com are stocked in the store. Cards positioned below each title provide a sample review and the book’s star rating on Amazon.com.
Actual prices are not noted on the covers or on the cards below them, but scanners are available throughout the store and you are encouraged to use them.
Prices are the same as the discounted prices on Amazon.com. This book by Erik Larson, one of my favourite authors, was listed at $17.00 . The discounted price was $11.70. Shoppers at the store gain by avoiding shipping costs and any mailing delays.
Displays throughout the store reinforce the Amazon.com connection. Online reviewers determine not only what books are stocked, but also to some degree where their favourite books are shelved and located.
If the crowds sifting through the store on the day I visited are any indication, Amazon’s just might be on to something with its new store. Certainly some – like me – were just curious visitors, but since I walked out with 3 newly purchased books when I had no intention of buying even one, perhaps that’s a testimony to Amazon’s clever marketing. As a reader, I felt strangely empowered. Here I belonged to a worldwide community of readers where our reviews, our feedback, our choices determined what was placed on the shelves. And talk about enticing prices. The discounts are hard to beat.
According to the sales clerk I questioned, this is exactly what why Amazon ventured into the brick-and-mortar field. “Amazon has been in operation for 20 years. We felt it was time to branch out, to offer more to our valued customers.”
Two more Amazon stores are set to open in the next few months – one in Portland, the other in San Diego. But why Seattle for the first? Perhaps a better question is ‘Why not Seattle?” Seattle is Amazon’s home base and at 20,000 employees in 30 buildings spread throughout the city, its largest private employer. Seattle is where the company started, where it’s grown into a worldwide mega-empire, and where proof of it gigantic holdings can be seen in a new office complex currently under construction that will soon dominate the city’s downtown.
A hotter than average summer brought an unexpected discovery recently. In the melt of a retreating glacier, Italian officials found the remains of 24 year-old Canadian Gregory Barnes who had gone missing in 1980 while skiing in the Italian and Swiss Alps.
For his family who had wondered about his fate, this brought long overdue closure. For me, it was a reminder that strange, beyond-our-control circumstances have often been sources of unexpected discoveries. Here are 5 accidental finds that owe their existence not so much to normal logic as they do to unpredictable weather conditions.
1974 – Ethiopia, Africa
When paleoanthropologist Donald Johanson awoke on the morning of November 30, 1974, he had a hunch “something terrific might happen.” In a region he’d searched before, he walked along a gully recently created by a flash flood. Among the churned stones and debris, he spotted a fossilized arm bone and several other bone fragments, all of them human-like and very old. They proved to be the remains of an adult female who lived millions of years ago. Named Lucy after a popular Beatles song, it was the oldest and most complete human discovered up until that time.
1986 – Sea of Galilee, Israel
After a severe drought, the water level in the Sea of Galilee dropped, exposing areas of sea floor never seen before. Two brothers, Yuval and Moshe Lufan, spotted a murky outline in the mud along that shoreline. It turned out to be a fishing boat built 2000 years ago that had been preserved in the mud. Composed of twelve different kinds of wood, including sycamore, laurel, oak and cedar, the vessel matched descriptions of fishing vessels given in the Bible, and was likely the kind of craft used to sail the sea during the time of Jesus.
1991 – Italian Alps
Following a summer of unusual heat, two German hikers – Helmut Simon and his wife, Erika- discovered a body embedded in a slowly melting glacier. Thinking it was an unfortunate hiker who had slipped and fallen to his death, Helmut took a photo of the body before continuing down the mountain to alert authorities. What the Simon’s found instead was a 5000 year old mummy, one of the oldest and best preserved ever discovered. Nicknamed Otzi the Iceman, the mummy is now on display in the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano, Italy.
1994 – St. Lawrence River
After a strong storm swept through the area near his cottage along the St Lawrence River, Marc Tremblay spotted pots, rifles, axes, bottles and the timbers of a ship half-buried in the sand. Called to investigate, archaeologists discovered the wreck of the Elizabeth and Mary, one of 32 English ships that led an attack on Quebec City in 1690 and then sank in a wild storm while making a hasty retreat.
2004 – Florida
After Hurricane Jeanne slammed the Atlantic coast, scraping away sand and relocating dunes, archaeologist Joel Ruth used a metal detector to comb the shoreline. He spotted a Spanish silver coin on the beach. “I grabbed it and then every foot it was – bam, bam – another hit,” he reported. After 4 hours of searching, the batteries of his metal detector died, but not before Ruth had found more than 180 silver coins worth more than $40,000.